La Mitad del Mundo y La Capilla del Hombre

We returned to Quito for one more day before heading to Colombia. We got up early and took a series of trolleys and buses out to the Mitad del Mundo, the must see tourist trap on the equator. According to the guide book, GPS technology has shown it to be a couple hundred yards off, but where else can you shake hands across hemispheres or jump back and forth over a line shouting, "Summer! Winter! Summer! Winter!"





Next we went back up into the hills to see Guayasamín's Capilla del Hombre, a chapel dedicated to the greatness and brutality of humanity. The chapel is filled with striking artwork, much of it full of sadness and horror, which I suppose is not all that surprising given the history of Latin America. Also displayed was a series of 82 terrifying etchings by Goya entitled, Los Desastres de la Guerra. Despite the harshness of some of the artwork, the whole was strangely tranquil and tender. As a monument of love, Guaysamín's chapel appeared passionate and deep. Of course his friendship with and admiration for Fidel Castro complicated matters in our minds.
























The grounds of the chapel and Guayasamín's house above it were beautiful and tranquil as well. We were shown around by a couple of very friendly security guards who had known the artist and spoke of him as a friend. The sun was low in the mountains across Quito as we caught a bus back down to the old city to pack for the following day's bus to the Colombian border.

Osvaldo Guayasamín

On our way to Loja in southern Ecuador, from Otavalo, we had six hours to kill in Quito. We took a cab up into the hills to see the Capilla del Hombre designed by Osvaldo Guayasamín, on the recommendation of Melissa who we met in our hostel in Otavalo. The chapel was closed but we did get to visit a collection of museums run by the Guayasamín Foundation on beautiful and peaceful grounds overlooking the city.

The first museum contained Guayasamín's collection of pre-Columbian art. We especially enjoyed the urns with crazy faces and the beautifully painted cereal bowls.










The second museum displayed works of Guayasamín himself, some quite realistic, some Picasso-like, and others nightmarish and hallucinatory. I really liked the series of portraits of women, especially the icy-cold and steel-rod straight ambassador from Uruguay.
























The final museum had a collection of colonial art but they didn't allow photos. It was a pleasant way to spend an afternoon before getting on an uncomfortable all night bus.