We returned to Quito for one more day before heading to Colombia. We got up early and took a series of trolleys and buses out to the Mitad del Mundo, the must see tourist trap on the equator. According to the guide book, GPS technology has shown it to be a couple hundred yards off, but where else can you shake hands across hemispheres or jump back and forth over a line shouting, "Summer! Winter! Summer! Winter!"
Next we went back up into the hills to see Guayasamín's Capilla del Hombre, a chapel dedicated to the greatness and brutality of humanity. The chapel is filled with striking artwork, much of it full of sadness and horror, which I suppose is not all that surprising given the history of Latin America. Also displayed was a series of 82 terrifying etchings by Goya entitled, Los Desastres de la Guerra. Despite the harshness of some of the artwork, the whole was strangely tranquil and tender. As a monument of love, Guaysamín's chapel appeared passionate and deep. Of course his friendship with and admiration for Fidel Castro complicated matters in our minds.
The grounds of the chapel and Guayasamín's house above it were beautiful and tranquil as well. We were shown around by a couple of very friendly security guards who had known the artist and spoke of him as a friend. The sun was low in the mountains across Quito as we caught a bus back down to the old city to pack for the following day's bus to the Colombian border.
4 days ago
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