Cobán, Flores y Tikal

For the most part bus travel in Latin America has been pretty easy. The chicken buses of Central America are uncomfortable, but we have had little problem finding buses and getting where we want to go. In Guatemala, however, things are different. There are few people who seem to have much information and the ones who do contradict each other. This effect is compounded because the locals seem to think all gringos want to pay three times as much to ride the tourist shuttles with other gringos.

Leaving Lanquín we ran into a sort of "you can't get there from here" situation, as my relatives from Maine say. We wanted to head north to Lago de Petén Itzá near the Mayan site of Tikal, but we were told we had to first return south to Cobán. Our first impulse was to ignore this advice and go the hook-or-by-crook route, but the morning rain changed our minds.

Cobán is a pleasant small city and we decided to stay two nights to get our clothes washed and see the Vivero Verapaz, a "mustn't miss" for orchid fanciers according to Lonely Planet. Due to more bad and contradictory information we managed to accomplish neither of those things, but we did recelebrate our anniversary with a spectacular meal at Casa D'Acuña which had its own orchid garden, the best parrilla we've had since Argentina, and a jolly waiter named Miguel (mi tocayo, Spanish for "Hey, that's your name, Dude.")











I woke up with a sore ankle on the day we left, and after three buses (thanks to more bad information) and a river ferry we made it to Flores on the lake. We had planned to go further to El Remate, but by this time I was barely able to walk and suffering flashbacks of our difficulties in Perú and Ecuador with broken bones.

Flores is described as "slightly twee" in Lonely Planet. I am not sure what that means but it seems to fit. It is a tourist island in the middle of a pretty lake, full of tour-hustlers and overpriced restaurants. Our hotel was poorly constructed and run but inexpensive, and had a pretty view from a small private balcony over the lake.

I didn't leave the room much the next day and Hilary brought me breakfast, a pizza dinner, ice cream, rum, and pain relievers, and earned herself yet another merit badge for going above and beyond the call of wifely duty.

A hybrid Mayan/Catholic celebration began at Epiphany. Like most celebrations in Guatemala this centered around fireworks. The festivities commenced each morning between 4 and 4:30 with salvo after salvo of what sounded alarmingly like artillery shells, each with two hair-raising concussions. After an hour or two when all hope of further sleep was abandoned the bombardier would knock off for a while to return at intervals throughout the day, timed to coincide with the full recovery of nervous function in the populace, or at least the gringos. Latin Americans generally have superhuman nerves when it comes to loud noise. I have found my enthusiasm for fireworks waning.

On our final day in Flores I managed to hobble around for a couple hours, so Hilary and I explored the little island, watching the dancers and soaking up as much tweeness as we could handle.














I woke up the next day almost back to normal and we took the shuttle out to the ruins of Tikal. We camped for two nights in the rain but the days, while overcast, were dry. We spent almost fourteen hours exploring the huge site and probably walked fifteen miles. In the evening, the morning, and outside of the main plaza we were largely alone. Although the gray skies made for disappointing pictures, the mists added to the magical atmosphere of the place.

Tikal's ruling dynasty was founded by King Yax Moch Xox around 230 AD. It dominated its neighbors in the 4th century under King Great Jaguar Paw, was conquered by Lord Water of Caracol (in what is now Belize) in the 6th century, regained its power at the beginning of the 8th century under King Moon Double Comb (also known as Lord Chocolate) who built its most impressive temples, started to collapse with the rest of the Mayan civilization in the 10th century and was consumed by the jungle not to be found again until the 19th century.

It is a huge place with many complexes and temples, most of which can be climbed despite their terrifying steepness. Two of the temples had views of the others, out over the jungle canopy and its roaring howler monkeys. Perhaps my favorite, Temple III, was unclimbable because it was left unexcavated, a giant mound of jungle growth with exposed stone only on the top third, towering above the trees.
























The majesty of Tikal is also in its location: a jungle full of beautiful plants and animals. The most prevalent animals are the playful coatis (called pizotes locally) with their lovely striped tails and the colorful pavos ocelados (ocellated turkeys). We also saw a crocodile, spider monkeys, agoutis, toucans, and many other colorful birds. There were pretty flowers and, as you'll notice, a plethora of interesting fungi. I am afraid I got a little carried away.




























On our way to Belize we stopped and had a pleasant lunch at a refreshingly non-touristy spot called Puente Ixlú where we met a sweet and brave dog with a damaged leg. We named her Wafers.